Visitors guide to the Avenue of the Volcanoes

Exploring the Avenue of the Volcanoes in Ecuador

This famous corridor in the Andes was given this name back in the 1800’s when the famous German explorer Alexander Von Humboldt visited Ecuador. Humboldt traversed the Andes and was impressed by the many snow-capped peaks that were spread on both sides of the road. This road today is the Panamerican highway. It runs in between both the oriental and occidental Andes mountain chain in Ecuador.

The Andes are the backbone of Ecuador. Sprinkled with about 40 different volcanoes, several of them still active. Many have impressive snowcapped peaks and are well above 5000 meters (16000 feet). For visitors the Avenue of the volcanoes is the section of Ecuador’s Andes that runs from Quito to Riobamba. Here we find the most famous mountains – Cotopaxi volcano at 5897 meters (19347 ft) is still active and is the first that is mentioned when thinking of this area. There is also the famous - Chimborazo mountain at 6310 meters (20500 ft), the closest place to the sun on earth. Other impressive volcanos in this area are Pichincha, Rumiñahui, Tungurahua, Carihauyrazo, Ilinizas, Corazon, Sincholagua, Altar, Antisana and others. The afore mentioned are found within a 4 hours driving range from Quito, Ecuador’s capital.

Within this both beautiful and frightening geography we find some of the country’s most important cities. Starting with Quito the capital.

This landscape is the home of the wonderful people of the Andes. Settled in small picturesque towns, they rely on agriculture, handcraft trade, and in the present day commerce as well as oil are important parts of the economy.

Ecuador’s native population is a mix of mestizo, indigenous, white, mulato, and black. Throughout the Avenue of volcanoes we will find mostly ther first 3. Many traditions from centuries past are still in practice today, colorful markets where barter still exists, natives where their iconic ponchos and keep ancestral customs in their everyday lives.

Top 3 Ecuador Tours that go through the Avenue of the Volcanoes

Quito, the starting point to explore the Avenue of volcanoes

Our trip starts in Quito. I will guide you through my favourite corners and share treasured spots that are deep in my heart and part of my roots. The city boasts the largest colonial center in South America. It is also considered the best preserved, as colonial buildings have been inventoried by UNESCO since 1978 and have been kept to their original status. My sister is an architect and she did an internship at the Quito school of art, she explains that the old town was built in Spanish Andalucian style. Of course the influence of the original inhabitants can be observed in every corner. The topography of the city also influenced how the first churches were built and how the the local population coped with canyons and ravines that descend from the Pichincha volcano and cross the city sideways.

Churches and Religious Art

Quito has so many churches and monasteries it is hard to grasp how these buildings are kept up today. Some convents have 1 or 2 priests/nuns living alone in a 40 room building. Ecuador has a catholic majority, but popularity of joining the ranks in the church has declined. Being an important part of ancient societies, not only the church but it’s surroundings shaped the history of Ecuador’s modern times.

A couple of my favourite’s to visit are:

- San Francisco church, the woodwork, religious art with indingenous influence, and the entire design impressive. We enjoy finding pranks the native artists played on their Spanish rulers at the time, placing them as beasts of burden to carry the pulpit or serving local caciques. The creativity of the church at the time to attract devotion is also to be admired, many pagan elements are present. You can find corn, mirrors and sculptures of the sun close to the altar and side by side with saints and apostoles. This method is called religious syncretism. It blended pre-catholic traditions into the ceremony to attract the indigenous people into mass. Today it is one of the most important collections of colonial art. The choir and ceiling will sweep you off your feet, the Spaniards were also conquered at some point in time, the Moorish influence in their art is strong in the colonial buildings of the America’s, a wooden mosaic built like a puzzle held together by the sole placement of it’s pieces is mindblowing. Sunday mass still fills this massive church with many local devotes.

Next to the church is the monastery and it holds the largest collection of fine religious art from the colony.

The location is in the old town and it is right at the plaza of the same name. In pre – inca times (Ecuador has a long pre-inca history, with original descendants of these tribes still living today and holding many ancient traitions) this plaza was the main marketplace of the America’s or whatever it was called back then. It is said that here is where the Olmecs got the first cocoa beans which led to the invention of chocolate (The first cocoa beans are traced back to the Mayo Chinchipe people from Ecuador’s Amazon – Carbon 14 test prove these are the first). Today it is a colorful plaza surrounded by many souvenir shops, local business and can turn from peaceful to noisy as there are street shows and concerts several times of the year.

Photo: Bradley Smith

La Compañia Church, a replica of Il Gesu in Rome, is made of volcanic stone from Pichincha volcano. The stone carved façade can impress many, but your jaw drops when you go inside and find the same exact design at the altar carved in wood and covered in 24k gold. This is one of the richest temples of the America’s. Not only gold work, but the detail on how gold leaf was affixed on the wood, the collection of paintings and the many wood carvings, sculptures and arches make it a true monument to baroque art and a must visit.
Fun fact: Tapestry shop in front of the church belonged to a Muslim family. In times of colony they adorned the façade of their impressive house with cherubs. One of the cherubs is well endowed and aims at the church….

The Basilica, built entirely in volcanic stone and the highest building in the historic old town, the basilica stands out. It is the largest gothic building in Latin America. The gargoyles are representations of Ecuador wildlife. There are jaguars from the amazon and tortoises from Galapagos, all carved in volcanic stone hanging from the sides of the church. The interior has some pretty neat glasswork and if you make it to the top of the stairs you can cross the bridge to what is called the condors nest (one of the towers) for an birds eye view of the city.

Plazas and Streets

The old town of Quito is not just churches and religious art. There are many other interesting buildings and cultural venues to visit. The above listed San Francisco plaza is a good start and allows visitors to explore the historic site of an ancient market plaza.

The main plaza or plaza grande is another iconic location. This is the center of power of the city, the plaza is flanked by the presidential palace, the cathedral, the municipality and archbishops palace. In colonial times this was the center of everything. In the middle of this plaza is the monument to independence.

On the western side of the plaza runs the Garcia Moreno street, known as the street of the 7 crosses. It connects 7 different monasteries, churches and religious buildings, ending at the mental hospital Saint Lazarus. If you walk any street in Quito, this is the one. You will find many small shops (barber, souvenirs, bookstores, apparel, sandwich shops, and much more) along the side. On weekends it is entirely pedestrian.

Just 7 minutes away from the main plaza you can venture into the charming San Marcos barrio. This is a residential area, many artists, musicians and traditional old school Quito descendants live here. It is a peaceful neighborhood with wonderful restaurants like La Purisima – housed inside the water color museum, also good pizza at La Bocanada – the owner Esteban is very friendly and can give advice on local immersion as well. The neighborhood also is home to one of Quito’s most luxurious hotels – ILLA Experience. We stayed here a couple nights as part of our latest property inspections, we were truly impressed by the experiences with local artisans and detailed service.

How many days should I stay in Quito?

You can easily make Quito your base and stay for an entire week. It is very close to places like the Mindo valley, the Otavalo market, Cotopaxi and Antisana volcanos, Papallacta hot springs, the middle of the world complex, and many other attractions. The city itself could take out 2 days of exploration easily. We have not mentioned the cable car to the foothills of active Pichincha volcano or the modern area with the Guayasamin museum and other contemporary art galleries.

Places to spend the night in Quito

Being the capital of Ecuador it is an important metropolis, with both the old town and the financial district housing the best hotel properties, you are not short of places to stay. Here are a few of our recommendations in several categories:

ILLA Experience Hotel

Heading south of Quito along the Panamerican Highway

Our next stop on a classic tour of the avenue of the volcanoes takes us to Cotopaxi national park. As you drive south out of Quito you will see open fields with crops that look like patchwork. Agriculture is still part of the Ecuador economy. Broccoli fields, flower plantations, and cattle farms “haciendas” are sprinkled across the landscape. The town of Machachi is an area you drive through on the way to the country inn’s (old hacinedas) or lodges that are close to the Cotopaxi volcano. On a clear day (aim for July and August) you can spot the snow capped peak from the city of Quito and several other small villages of the Andes.

Cotopaxi National Park

It is not just about the volcano. If you drive in through the northern entrance you have already driven around canyons formed by past eruptions. You then go through the pedregal, stone field, where you will find small stones and large boulders of Pomes stone and other volcanic rocks. It will be clear you are exploring the foothills of an active volcano. It is hard to understand how the Andean communities live happily under the watchful eye of a giant that is still active and has been at the verge of an eruption over the past few years.

Inside the park you observe wild horses, cara cara birds, Andean foxes, and with luck condors flying above.

One of the scenic spots is the limpiopungo lake. It is within the heart of the park and is a nice place to get photos and enjoy the reflection of the mountain within it’s clear waters.

On my last visit we drove up to the parking lot. This is the starting point to hike up to the mountain refuge. The refuge is just below the glacier. Many mountaineers spend the night before attempting to reach the summit. There is a basic cafeteria with hot chocolate and instant coffee with snacks. We took it slowly and did the 50 min. walk from our van to the refuge. The weather was actually pleasant and we spotted a couple hawks within 50 meters of us. The glacier has backed up a bit, this is a clear sign of global warming, it used to be a 30 minute walk from the front door of the refuge, now it takes a good 45 minutes. It is important to acclimatize before attempting to hike to the refuge or the glacier, a few days above 3000 mts. should do it (staying at an hacienda near the park is a good idea).

The journey to the park is an opportunity to see other volcanoes and mountains. One of the easiest is Rumiñahui at 4721 meters (15489 ft), it is a stone peak, no snow, but imposing within the scenery and just behind the Limpiopungo lake. On the other side of the highway the twin Illinizas are another imposing view along the road.

Where to stay

There are several haciendas and country inn’s close to Cotopaxi. On our last visit we slept at Los Mortiños, we like the fact that you can have a view of Cotopaxi volcano in all it’s glory from the comfort of your bed in the suites. There are options for every budget and taste. If you want to experience another important Andean city you can spend the night in Latacunga as well. There are a standard hotels in town.

Here is a list of our preferred hotels:

From $447.00

Hacienda San Agustin de Callo

Activity Options

You can attempt at the summit of Cotopaxi volcano. This is a strenuous semi-technical climb. You will need to acclimatize and reach other peaks (Pasochoa, Illinizas, Rumiñahui are some options) for about 4 – 5 days before attempting Cotopaxi. It is very important to hire a local guide from a reputable tour operator. This is not an easy ascent, there are many climatic factors to take into account. There are crevices and ice walls to overcome. Safety is your main concern here, and only experienced guides can lead you through the proper routes.

Horseback riding in the style of the Andean cowboys “Chagras” is also possible. You will be appointed with a poncho and Zamarros (Cowboy leather pants) and with a small Andean horse. This is a fun way to explore the straw lands, tundra and head off the beaten path.

If you are looking for some adrenaline, we can recommend booking a downhill bike tour. Make sure you have a good helmet and proper equipment. The slopes down Cotopaxi are sandy and it is easy to slip. The best way to do it is riding down the winding road with your support vehicle keeping your back. We were tempted to cut straight-down of the path, but there are many stones and holes so it is best to stick to the road.

From USD 1620,00 pp

Ecuador

10 Days

The Jewel Of The Andes Tour

Explore Ecuador's Andes: Quito, markets, volcanoes, ancient ruins, and serene towns in a 10-day cultural adventure!

Day : Arrival in Quito
Day : Quito Historic Center & Middle of the World
Day : Quito’s Six Senses Tour

Local markets: Saquisili, Pujili and Latacunga

Ecuador’s Andes are dotted with small communities. Smaller villages are home to indigenous people and they traditionally carry through there economy at markets. It is actually an important social gathering as well. People in these small towns actually dress up their best to go the market, in some places there is live music and the street food stalls are part of an ongoing party. Other days, you have a bustling market with local produce from the region and from other regions of the country (Amazon lowland products and products from the coast). There are also animal markets, where villagers go to sell their animals or trade them “Can I have that horse, I will give you two pigs”. Barter is still popular amongst the indigenous people here.

The Latacunga market is the only one inside a city. It spreads out into the city streets. You will find produce and products amongst colonial buildings. Here we were able to buy a basket of fruit for under $10 USD. We love the fresh fruit of Ecuador. When traveling remember that if you do not have water to wash the fruit it is best to stick to fruit you can peel. No worries the variety is such, there is safe snacks for everyone. Our basket was made up of bananas – both the common and the “orito” (small sweet apple banana), pitahaya (dragon fruit), tangerines, oranges and achotillo (an exotic fruit from the Amazon).

Saquisili (Thursday) and Pujili (Sunday and Wednesday) are both produce and animals markets. Indigenous people travel from the nearby villages and countryside to sell their crops. Saquisili is one of the most impressive in the country, the market spreads out through 7 plazas. From Andean grains, fruit, guinea pigs, goats – locals drink goat milk as they believe it cures respiratory illnesses – there is also produce and finally utilitarian basketry and pottery. Each plaza is a new discovery. Pujili is smaller yet very interesting as well. To see the animal markets it is important to arrive early.

CULTURAL BUFF TIP: If you really are keen to and enjoy the local culture, take the loop backwards. Start on a Wednesday and visit Pujili, sleep at a lodge near Quilotoa and return on Thursday through Saquisili. This way you can enjoy both in one trip.

These are not touristy markets, they are authentic trade places where local people are themselves. They dress in their ponchos, their traditional attire, and distinctive hats. It is important to be respectful and hold back from taking photos of people without permission, they can get offended and even turn aggressive if you go beyond the limits.

Flower Plantations

Ecuador is one of worlds largest suppliers of Roses. From the forever lasting rose to the 2 meter stem flowers, the country excels in producing the best of the best. There are rose plantations along the Panamerican highway that use organic techniques and avoid pesticides and harmful chemicals. A visit to these farms allows you to learn about all the varieties of roses and even try out the rose ice cream.

The Zumbahua Market

The small town of Zumbahua is 20 minutes away from the crater. It is a small colorful village, on Sundays the market is bustling with animals and produce. The location of Zumbahua is on an alternative road that leads to the coastal lowlands. Many products from the coast are traded at the market and later distributed at other markets in the Andes. This is one of the most authentic markets in Ecuador.

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Quilotoa Crater Lake

This lake is formed by an un-conventional eruption. The Quilotoa volcano imploded instead of exploding, the glacier collapsed into the caldera and formed a turquoise colored lake. The color of the water is due to the minerals from the eruption.

On the western side of the Panamerican highway, you go either through Saquisili or Pujili and head off the beaten path. You can enter one way and exit the other. This whole area is known as the Quilotoa loop. We drove in through Saquisili, we were up very early at 6h00 am to explore the animal market at its peak time. We did not stay long as we did want to disturb locals doing what they do, so we walked the different plazas, followed the request of our host family and bought a chicken, some grains and potatoes to share with the local family that was going to host us by the Quilotoa crater (this experience was one of the highlights of this trip, we recommend doing something similar – you can request from your travel planner to coordinate).

Most of the road is paved. There are opportunities to go off the path and visit smaller communities. This loop boasts some of the best scenery in Ecuador, mountains take on golden hues different times of the day, it is common to spot sheep herders walking by the side of the road wearing their red ponchos and guiding their flock. The small town of Tigua is a must stop with it’s naif art. Paintings are done in acrylic over lamb skin, we bought a representation of the manger with Andean llamas representing the camels.

On our last visit we hiked to the bottom of the crater and rented kayaks from the local community. It is a sandy and soft trail. Be careful to measure your energy for the return up to the top. Don’t let the walk down fool you, you are well above 4000 meters and if not acclimatize you can run into trouble on the way back. There is the option of riding a donkey on the way up, a bit rough but for some it is a lifesaver. From the rim of the crater on a clear day you see Cotopaxi and the Illinizas in the background.

Where to stay near Quilotoa

There are several small properties and lodges along the entire loop. Do not expect luxury. Think of the opportunity to participate in a home stay and share time with a local family. A few places to consider for staying are: Llulu Llama – a nice small lodge with an Andean spa, Black Sheep inn – an eco friendly lodge with a basic spa, it is located in the colorful village of Chugchilan, Shalala is a NGO sponsored project with the best look out point over the crater, the rooms are nice but have been forgotten a bit so it is quite basic. Local families also offer homestay options and include meals (be sure to bring additional ingredients and protein) for locals a fine meal is made up lots of carbs, by bringing ingredients you are giving the family an opportunity of a hearty meal and share it with you.

Our host was Rosita Guayama, it was a treasured moment to share the home with her family. Our bedroom was separate from the family area, so we did have our privacy. She has capacity for up to 10 people, we were fortunate to be the only ones there this time. We had dinner together and enjoyed a life-enhancing experience. The children were shy, but smiled at us all the time, the family shared their stories – we know Spanish, but when you book this type of trip the guide can translate. Please note that accommodation is basic, for this type of accommodations, Voyagers sends new luxury linens and blankets that is left as a donation to the family. It is possible to share a dinner and stay at a commercial lodge with more comforts as well (for us the experience is worth the lack of comfort).

Continue South to Riobamba

From the Quilotoa crater it takes about 2 hours to return to the Panamerican highway. Descending from the high plateaus back to the Interandean Valley offers amazing scenery. En-route you will pass by the city of Ambato, this is one of Ecuador’s agricultural hubs with many fruit orchards. One of our favorite stops, when we have time is in the Ficoa area, here you can enjoy “Cuy” – “guinea pigs”, it is roasted. For those who have an adventurous palate it is highly recommended. It is one of the healthiest meats, specially when the Cuys are farmed with grass only (traditional way). If you are frowning at the idea of eating your pet hamster, then you can visit the central market where the variety of fruits and vegetables is amazing. The flower market is also a place to admire the different roses and tropical flowers that are grown for the local market decorations.

Ambato is also a highly industrialized city with many factories and construction shops for buses. This part being not so picturesque.

Another stop along the panamerican highway where you can try your taste buds at Cuy or Roasted pork is in the town of Moche. Doña Diocelina restaurant has been around for over 50 years and is famous for its traditional cuisine.

The first glimpse of Chimborazo – Ecuador’s highest peak - will definitely take your breath away. As you approach the highest point on the road, on a clear day, you have a direct view of the Chimborazo snow – capped peak. It is possible to go off the main road for a few thousand feet and reach the Urbina train station. More of a memorial today, of what Ecuador railroad was like. The tracks and the station are still there. It is a short stop, the location allows for an unobstructed view of the mountain.

It is possible to visit the backside of Chimborazo, this is on the road that goes through the Arenal. This option has to be decided before leaving Ambato. This road leads to the entrance of the Faunistic reserve. Be watchful for the many Vicuña that are in moorlands and often appear by the highway. From the entrance it is possible to drive to the first refuge, form here you can hike 50 min. up to the 2^nd refuge. It is not a race so pace it out and whatever it takes you make sure you are acclimatized. You are starting at 4350 mts. (14271 feet), so be aware you must be acclimatized before trying it out.

Another option on the way to Riobamba is to visit Guano. A small village where locals specialize in weaving handmade rugs. The other local trait is to make “Cholas”. This is a special bread that is filled with fresh cheese and sugar can syrup, be careful, they are addicting.

Riobamba, what to see and do?

Riobamba is a beautiful Andean city. It is shadowed by both Quito and Cuenca, but it is actually at par in terms of beautiful colonial architecture. The style of the buildings is Andalucian yet it holds a very strong influence from indigenous tribes near the city. These ancient people are descendants of the last Incas, but also descendants of the Pre – Inca people – the Puruha nation. The Puruhaes resisted the Inca conquest fiercely and were only subdued by an alliance where Huayna Capac married princess Paccha from the Duchicela dynasty.

The original city of Riobamba was the first capital of Ecuador. It was founded close to the Colta lagoon some 24 km. south. This first city was destroyed by an earthquake in 1797. The new city was established where you find it today in a valley called Tapi. Many stones and remnants from the first location where rescued and used in building what Riobamba is today.

More interesting Markets

The strong indigenous influence in Riobamba can still be observed today. At the main market you can observe local natives with their colorful ponchos and felt hats showcasing their produce and fruits. The hornado “roasted pork” is a legendary dish, the best place to try it is at La Merced market, also in the center of town. Be sure to have it with mote and tortillas (Hominy corn and potato patties). The ladies at the market will also give you an ego boost by calling out “Hola Guapo pruebe pruebe…” – “Hello handsome try it try it”. You can enjoy it with a fresh fruit juice and more praise. Try Naranjilla with alfalfa, it is a blend that is unique, tasty and healthy. If you are looking for desert, just head out the back door and find ice cream made with ice blocks from the Chimborazo foothills.

Some of the most interesting buildings are the Colegio Pedro Vicente Maldonado, the Cathedral and Teatro Leon. These are all within walking distance from each other. Every Thursday evening the Teatro Leon hosts a classical music concert, it is free and on a first come first serve basis. The theatre is beautiful, actually part of a private home from the early 1900’s.

The Red Plaza

For a unique cultural encounter, be sure to visit the Red Plaza…. Named this way because of the red ponchos worn by the indigenous people that gather here every Wednesday and Saturday. There are souvenir stalls and small pop up shops. The gem here are the people with sewing machines, local indigenous people bring their paints, shirts, skirts, etc to be sewn and patched up by these local taylors in red ponchos. You can have your torn jeans sewn for $2-3 USD in less than five minutes.

Las Conceptas Musuem

One of the most important displays of religious art in the Andes can be found in this small museum. A treasure trove of paintings, custodies (the most famous was stolen a few years ago) and other religious artifacts. One of our favourite displays is to see how cloister nuns have lived for centuries. They enter the monastery as children. In the museum you can observe toys from the first nuns. There is also a replica of the old monastery that was first built in the first city of Riobamba which was destroyed in the 1700’s earthquake. Aside the museum there is Las Conceptas cloister, there are still nuns living here today, they never leave their monastery and are secluded from society. Their main task is to pray for us everyday.

Museo de las Conceptas | Riobamba Ecuador

Photo: Diario los Andes

Mountaneering and other adventures

Riobamba is in the geographic center of Ecuador. It is considered the mountain climbing capital of the country. Some of the best mountain guides and legends are from Riobamba, starting with Marco Cruz who still runs a private refuge at the foothills of Chimborazo (I have had some of the best trout ever at this lodge).

It is possible to arrange climbing expeditions from Riobamba to some of Ecuador’s most challenging and beautiful summits: Chimborazo (6310 mts), El Altar (5319 mts) – do not let the lesser altitude fool you, it is perhaps one of the most difficult and technical climbs in the Andes with it’s five peaks, each with it’s own specific trail, Carihuairazo, Quilimas, Cubillin amongst others. There are more than 20 trekking routes to discover from the city.

Places to Stay

There are several quaint places to stay in Riobamba, including country inns, haciendas and colonial houses turned to boutique hotels. Below is a list of our favorites.

We hope to have inspired you to explore the Avenue of the Volcanoes in Ecuador. At Voyagers Travel we offer custom travel planning services and can help you design an itinerary that matches your exploration preferences.

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