Want me to share a secret with you? I've never had a fondness for water. My recent snorkeling adventure in Costa Rica left me feeling seasick and necessitated a rescue buoy to bring me back to shore. Quite embarrassing. However, when Relais & Châteaux invited me to spend four days exploring the Galápagos Islands, I was determined not to let my discomfort at sea hinder my chance to witness the 'last paradise on Earth.' Armed with a robust supply of motion sickness tablets, I embarked on the journey.
Our first destination was Quito, nestled high in the Andes and the first city to be granted Unesco World Heritage status for its exceptionally preserved historic center. I spent the night at Relais & Châteaux’s Casa Gangotena, an exquisite mansion turned boutique hotel in Plaza San Francisco. After savoring some local coffee, I bid farewell to Quito, promising to return and explore its cultural treasures. A flight of 815 miles west brought me to Galápagos Ecological Airport on Baltra Island, where even before reaching the arrivals lounge, I encountered two endemic species: a Galápagos land iguana basking near an opuntia cactus.
The Galápagos boasts some of the world's highest levels of endemism, with 97% of the archipelago being protected national park land. Accompanied by a National Park certified guide, I made my way to Relais & Châteaux’s Pikaia Lodge on Santa Cruz Island, perched on the edge of an extinct volcano in a cloud forest. The eco-lodge, with its futuristic appearance, offered a breathtaking view of untouched green wilderness extending towards the Pacific at sunset.
While many visitors prefer 'liveaboard' ships, the 14-room Pikaia Lodge specializes in land-based exploration, providing bespoke adventures during the day and the comfort of a five-star resort with a spa, infinity pool, and fine dining restaurant for the evening. This arrangement delighted the landlubber in me.
The exploration continued with the resort's private luxury yacht, Vision Pikaia, taking us to North Seymour Island. There, I witnessed a fascinating display of birdlife, including frigatebirds, pelicans, and blue-footed boobies engaged in an elaborate mating dance. The journey continued to Mosquera Islet, where we had the opportunity to snorkel in turquoise waters alongside a playful group of juvenile sea lions.
Isolated from mainland threats, the Galápagos Islands are a unique haven where animals and humans coexist harmoniously. The absence of native inhabitants until 1832 and the establishment of the islands as a national park in 1959 contributed to animals perceiving humans as non-threats.
Our quest for the Galápagos penguin led us to Sullivan Bay on Bartolomé Island, offering a stunning view of Pinnacle Rock. Snorkeling brought encounters with blacktip and whitetip reef sharks, and a surprising rendezvous with eight torpedoing penguins. A sea turtle joined us as we flipped our way to Golden Bay, creating another unforgettable experience.
The following days were predominantly spent on land, starting with a visit to the Charles Darwin Research Station in Puerto Ayora and a tortoise reserve in the misty highlands of Santa Cruz Island. Slow-moving giant tortoises were abundant, showcasing the incredible diversity of these unique creatures.
My final day began with a heartening activity: planting a tree, a tradition at Pikaia Lodge. As I buried the roots of an endemic scalesia tree, I learned that the lodge had planted 11,000 trees since acquiring the 76-acre former cattle ranch. A visit to Tortuga Bay, named after nesting turtles, provided encounters with marine iguanas, the Earth's only seafaring lizards.
An afternoon flight brought us back to reality in Guayaquil, Ecuador's port city. We eased back into urban life with a stay at Relais & Châteaux’s Hotel del Parque, the city's most luxurious and historic hotel, housing the celebrated restaurant Casa Julián. Dinner featured a remarkable tasting menu inspired by Ecuador's major export: cacao, marking a splendid conclusion to an extraordinary week.