From high-test cocktails to floating islands, experience the many highlights of Peru
Cusco
Cusco, a captivating city in the Peruvian Andes, sits at nearly 3,400 meters and can quite literally take your breath away due to its altitude. Visitors are advised to stay near their hotel and relax for the first couple of days, using altitude sickness medication or drinking plenty of coca tea to mitigate symptoms. The old city, characterized by its hills radiating from the central Plaza de Armas, features the imposing Santo Domingo Convent, built by Spanish conquerors atop the Incan Temple of the Sun (Qoricancha).
Cusco, enveloping the airport and spreading across numerous hillsides, is Peru’s seventh-largest city with a population of 505,000. Its cobblestone streets and numerous alleyways make for easy exploration and delightful discoveries, including quaint cafes, unique bars, and diverse restaurants offering everything from vegetarian dishes to alpaca steak and cuy (guinea pig). The San Pedro market is a must-visit for its abundant stalls of salts, chocolate, fertility powders, cheese, vegetables, flowers, and fresh milk, as well as its smoothie and juice booths and fast-food stalls.
Accommodations range from budget-friendly hostels (under $50 US) to luxury hotels like Monasterio ($545 US per night with breakfast or $1,172 US per night for an oxygen-infused superior room) and Palacio Nazarenas, both Belmond hotels. Mid-range options include Casa Andina Hoteles ($170 US) with four standard hotels and one premium location in the city center, two of which are conveniently situated on opposite sides of Plaza de Armas.
Lake Titicaca and the Floating Reed Islands
Lake Titicaca, straddling the border between Peru and Bolivia, is surrounded by rural villages and the city of Puno on its west side. Smugglers are rumored to cross the lake to sell goods in Juliaca’s midnight market, but the lake itself is the true attraction. Intrepid Travel offers homestays with farm families, providing a unique perspective on Peruvian life. These stays include private rooms, attached bathrooms, meals with the family, and participation in activities like planting, harvesting, or tending animals.
The floating reed islands are the lake’s main draw. Originally built to avoid taxes, the 120 islands are home to 2,500 inhabitants. They are created by tying large blocks of earthen-bound roots together, layering fresh reeds on top, and are abandoned after about 15 years due to their weight. Most islands have solar panels for power, but residents travel to the lake’s deep center for fresh water. Larger islands have schools and clinics, and all have boats for fishing and reed collecting. Decorated reed boats offer short tours for visitors, and an overseer manages island visitation schedules to distribute tourism income.
Ollantaytambo
Ollantaytambo, a charming town in the heart of trekking country, serves as the starting point for the four-day, 42-km trek to Machu Picchu. Those preferring the train can reach the station with a short walk. The town, reminiscent of backpacking communities in India and Nepal, is filled with hospedajes (hostels) and guest inns. A higher-end option is Tunupa Lodge, known for its well-appointed rooms, generous breakfast, and on-site alpacas.
The town offers numerous restaurants, bars, and souvenir shops, including the Awamaki boutique, which supports the local community by selling handcrafted items. Trails lead to 15th-century Incan ruins, including a giant staircase of over 150 steps, showcasing impressive Incan engineering and well-preserved stonework.
Pisco Sour
No visit to Peru is complete without trying the national drink, Pisco Sour. This potent cocktail combines one part simple syrup, egg white, and lemon juice with three parts pisco, shaken and topped with three drops of aromatic bitters. Be prepared for its strong kick, courtesy of the high-proof spirit distilled from fermented grape juice.