Peru | Ceviche, Guinea Pig and the Best Potatoes of Your Life: Eight Things To Eat and Drink in Peru

Ceviche, Guinea Pig and the Best Potatoes of Your Life: Eight Things To Eat and Drink in Peru

2024-09-16

Have you ever been to a restaurant where everything on the menu looks so good that it’s almost frustrating? That’s the delightful dilemma when dining in Peru: every meal presents too many tempting options. It’s hard to recall feeling more aware—or disappointed—by limited stomach capacity than during Classic Peru trip. The nine-day journey took a small group from Lima into the Andes, visiting Cusco and Machu Picchu, with a final stop at Lake Titicaca before returning to the capital. Calculating how much could be eaten during this Peruvian adventure—nine days, 27 meals, hopefully plenty of snacks—left a slight feeling of regret: barely scratching the surface of what Peru had to offer.

The trip included everything desired, such as plenty of ceviche and Pisco Sours, but more importantly, the Classic Peru itinerary featured distinct Andean cuisine, introducing travelers to countless new dishes and encouraging them to try more. It’s impossible to taste everything during a stay in Peru, as there is simply too much to experience. However, here’s a top list: a collection of Peruvian dishes to try on a first visit. Don’t worry, there will still be plenty left for future trips.

Chicha Morada

Chicha morada | Peru
Photo: Andres Jacobi
 

The tour leader, Luis, hails from Cusco and has spent most of his life in the Andes. He was like a Swiss Army knife in human form—whether it was his fluency in indigenous Quechua, encyclopedic knowledge of the Incan Empire, or impeccable sense of humor, the small group kept discovering new ways in which he made their trip easier. Whenever the group shared a meal, Luis ordered a tall glass of chicha morada. Given his knack for choosing the best item from the menu, the Broadsheet photographer Brook and the others quickly adopted his drink of choice. They were glad they did. This sweet, blood-red beverage made from purple corn tastes somewhat like mulled wine, but cold (and without the alcohol). It’s hard to get enough of it, but if a break is needed, a bottle of Inca Kola—Peru’s national soft drink, which outsells Coca-Cola—is a solid alternative.

Potato Anything

 

While it was known that potatoes originated from South America, it wasn’t until visiting Peru that it became clear they are native to the Andes. Peruvians truly know their way around a potato. Everywhere in the Andes, the cultural significance of this tuber is evident, from the mounds of chuño (dried potatoes that last over a decade) spotted on the roadside, to the heirloom potato chips found in local shops.

A highlight of the trip was visiting the Amaru community in the Sacred Valley of the Incas. The residents shared their potato harvest, revealing an astonishing variety, some knobbly like ginger, others deep crimson and resembling starchy roses. All of them were delicious when served at lunch. The recommendation? Always order potatoes when in Peru—there will be plenty of opportunities.

Guinea Pig

 

The lunch in Amaru came with more surprises. Although the group came from diverse backgrounds, they were united by their desire to try as many new foods as possible. At their request, Luis arranged for the group to sample the ultimate Andean delicacy: guinea pig. While dozens of touristy restaurants in the Andes feature cartoon guinea pigs on their signs, the animal is traditionally reserved for ceremonial occasions. Sampling it in a more respectful setting, roasted by a Quechuan family, made for a special experience. While it’s uncertain whether guinea pig would have been tried independently, the group’s encouragement provided the needed push. Back home, guinea pig won’t likely be craved anytime soon, but it was certainly worth trying.

Ceviche

Ceviche | Peru
Photo: Brook James
 

The Incan Empire’s vast road network once allowed fish caught on the Peruvian coast to be delivered deep into the Andes, arriving fresh for the emperor in Cusco. However, the preference now is to enjoy seafood closer to the water. So, the Lima portion of the trip was designated as “ceviche time.” Peru’s signature dish—a combination of marinated raw fish, Andean corn, red onion ribbons, and sweet potato slivers—did not disappoint. Be sure to also order a glass of leche de tigre, the ceviche marinade, as a standalone drink. Since Classic Peru trip begins and ends in Lima’s trendy Miraflores district, the holiday was bookended with delicious ceviche.

Sanguches

 

Peru has a passion for sandwiches, evident in the many sangucherías found throughout the country. Every option at these sandwich shops is excellent, but a particular favorite was pan con chicharrón, a breakfast sandwich filled with fried pork, red onion, and sweet potato slices. No need to worry about finding the absolute best spot—even the more touristy diners serve sandwiches that surpass typical expectations.

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Alpaca

 

As someone familiar with eating animals associated with their country, it was exciting to learn that Peru’s alpacas are not only known for their wool but also for their taste. Alpaca dishes such as risotto, skewers, and steaks were enjoyed, and the flavor, similar to a mix of lamb and venison, was excellent. Alpaca is highly recommended for visitors looking to try something unique.

Andean Quinoa Soup

 

Remember the quinoa craze? Peru missed out on that fad because locals have been eating this nutritious seed for thousands of years. Quinoa was first domesticated in the Lake Titicaca basin, so it’s no surprise that the best quinoa on the trip was served during a homestay in a village on the lake’s shores. Every meal began with a simple yet magical quinoa soup, made with spices, herbs, vegetables, and generations of culinary knowledge.

Pollo a la Brasa

Pollo a la Brasa | Peru
Photo: Brook James
 

Peru seems to have more chicken-focused restaurants than anywhere else, with most of them serving pollo a la brasa, or rotisserie-style chicken. One evening in Puno, the city that serves as the gateway to Lake Titicaca, Luis took the group to one of his favorite chicken spots. Located away from the main square, the restaurant had a low-key, almost hidden vibe. The quarter chicken and chips, covered in uchucuta (a vivid green salsa found on most Peruvian tables), was a highlight of the meal, with one of the group members even ordering a second serving before finishing the first. While there may have been some regrets later, the meal was thoroughly enjoyed. This is a common theme in Peru: every meal is so tempting, it’s easy to overindulge.